I’m back after a fabulous holiday and well earned rest, if I say so myself. After a long winter and not having had a holiday for three years due to covid, both Stuart and I were well ready for a break. We’d booked to go on a Horses and Culture holiday near Moron de la Frontera, near Seville, in Andalucía. Due to covid we had to rearrange three times and felt we’d never get there. Although Horses & Culture were so accommodating and helpful, it was still with a little trepidation that we set off. Flying with Jet2, we were lucky enough to avoid any disruption. I did feel for the other travellers queuing at the airport, especially those with young children.
Finally arriving at Malaga airport we were picked up by a very friendly Enrique who immediately made us feel at ease. Chatting to him on the way to the finca we found out that the other people who were booked to visit at the same time as us had to cancel. This meant that we had the whole place to ourselves. Arriving at the finca we were introduced to Estella, Enrique’s beautiful wife and little Enrique Junior, their one year old son. Joining them were Mary Lou, a very elegant lady who was Enrique’s mother, and Nacho, their employee and an all round great guy. We were also welcomed by three beautiful very well behaved dogs. After we settled in, Mary Lou made us a cup of coffee and we discussed going for a hack that evening with Enrique. I couldn’t wait, I was so excited to meet the horse I was going to ride.
At 6.30pm we made our way over to the stables to meet our horses. I was introduced to Carolla, a gorgeous bay Andalusian mare and Stuart was introduced to Diana, a beautiful chocolate brown Warmblood. Once mounted, we set off across the stunning countryside. Honestly, these horses were so sure footed and calm, we had the most relaxing hack, which was a great way to wind down after a long journey. The sun was shining and the birds were singing and Enrique kept asking if we were okay and making sure we were happy; I couldn’t stop grinning.
Once back at the Finca we had an hour to get ready before our evening meal, cooked for us by Mary Lou. Now if you are ever lucky enough to go to this wonderful place for a holiday please take my advice, go on a diet before you go! At first I made the mistake of thinking the first course was the whole meal and tucked in with gusto, each mouthful was so tasty. Imagine my surprise when another mouthwatering dish was served up. By the end of the meal I was so full I could hardly move from the table. I have to add at this point that Enrique sat and ate with us every evening, he was so charming and friendly, it struck both Stuart and me how passionate he was about his horses and making sure his guests had the very best holiday. We then met the lovely Victoria, a dressage rider form Poland who had gone for work experience and training, she was very friendly and such good company.
We had lessons from Enrique most mornings and these were extremely informative and made complete sense to us both. The horses were very well schooled, as soon as we learned how to ask them properly they made a fabulous outline and were reactive off the leg, a real dream to ride. The evening hacks were stunning and a great way to chill out. I got to choose to hack out Carolla or Cora, a gorgeous grey mare. They ranged from one to two hours and covered some amazing scenery. I was amazed how high we climbed. Cantering through the Spanish countryside on a well schooled horse was sheer bliss. Turning and seeing a massive grin on Stuarts face as he was hot on our heels is something I will never forget.
Culture and Trips
The Royal Andalusian School Of Equestrian Art
The excursions were brilliant too. Nacho accompanied us to the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art in Jerez de la Frontera, where we had a look around the Recreo De Las Cadenas, then the museum of Equestrian Art, and the Carriage Museum, then got front seats to a fantastic display of horsemanship. Afterwards we were allowed to visit the stables and see the horses. Then we were taken to Restaurant Albala where the food was amazing.
Olvera
The trip to Olvera with Nacho was superb. Over lunch in a tapas restaurant, Nacho explained the history of the place and advised us to see the Moorish castle and Catholic church. After a walk up a very quaint steep street we saw the church of Nuestra Senora De La Encarnacion built on the foundations of a Moorish church. Right across the plaza is Olvera castle. The climb to the top was a challenge in the heat but the view was well worth it.
Yeguada de la Cartuja Stud
Nacho took us to Yeguada de la Cartuja Stud, and Victoria accompanied us. We had such a lovely time with them both. Whilst Nacho was showing us around a man stopped me and asked
“Do you have a private guide showing you around?”
“yes” I answered
“Is he showing you around here or is he with you for the day?”
“No for the whole time we are in Spain”
The look on his face was priceless. This is just an example of the way we were looked after.
First we had a tour of the stables and carriage museum by a very entertaining lady who explained all of the welfare work they do. We met the horses who were really friendly and happy to be stroked. The display of riding and carriage driving was fabulous and the “horse whisperer” was amazing. I did spot a couple of treats popping into the horses’ mouth, they obviously train their horses with kindness. Then they brought in this years foals, who had a great time galloping around and showing off. Once they had settled down they let the mares in who knew exactly where their foals were, they stood and fed them whilst in the arena, then calmly walked out. Yes, I have to admit to needing my tissue – I obviously had something in my eye, honestly. The finale was brilliant with all the horses being ridden in together.
We then went to a beautiful restaurant called Venta De Cartuja, it was full of old world charm and had a stream running through the middle of it with goldfish swimming in it. The food was amazing, their specialty being Octopus.
Ronda
Enrique himself took us to Ronda, a mountain top town set above a magnificent gorge El Tajo. We stood on the Cono Balconies that stick out over the gorge where the view was spectacular. Enrique was very knowledgeable and gave us a tour of the old town, telling us of the history. This was somewhere we would never have found without him. He explained about Francisco Romero, a famous bullfighter born in the 1700 who was the first to face the bull on foot instead of a horse. He told us about Cayetano Ordoñez and his family who were some of the greatest torreodores of the 20th Century. It was the rivalry between his great grandchildren, two brothers called Antonio and Dominguin, that Ernest Hemmingway documented in The Dangerous Summer. In Paseo De Blas Infante there was a statue of Hemmingway who spent his final birthday in Ronda.
We walked over the “New Bridge”, completed in 1793. Then we stopped for a tapas lunch and chill out. A walk around the more touristy parts then ready to relax, we were taken back to the Finca.
Our Last Day At The Finca
On our final day we decided to stay at the Finca and chill out instead of going on a trip, making the most of the pool. I have to mention how brilliant it was relaxing in the pool whilst being able to see the horses relaxing under the shade of field shelters and trees in the paddocks, while watching Enrique give Victoria a lesson in the school. We had lunch and another gorgeous evening meal prepared by Mary Lou who really looked after us whilst we were there. We were never made to feel like visitors, we honestly felt like part of the family.
The day we left both Stuart and I were really sad to leave this beautiful place where the animals were so well looked after, equally as well as the guests. Enrique took us out for our last hack and I didn’t want it to end. I gave a final pat to the horses, threw my things in my suitcase then reluctantly jumped into the minibus. I loved it at Dehesa del Carmen and felt a week wasn’t long enough to spend with my new Spanish family.
We were then driven back to Malaga Airport to pick up our hire car and head off to Cordoba for a city break before heading to a villa near Frigiliana. I’ll tell you about the second and third part of our holiday in my next blog.
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